Kosovo is a good place to visit; if one of the purposes of tourism is to understand and be understood, visiting fractured yet hopeful countries is important.

The Central River in Sarajevo “What can I do in Sarajevo?”, is a question posed by many travellers heading to the Balkans and the answer is that it is a very curious and interesting experience.When there, one is permanently mindful of Narnia, and each time a new looking-glass presents it self, and one clambers ungainly through it, the perspective changes, and with it reality. There is, of course, no such thing as “reality”, and here as much as any other region in conflict, perspective and perception are the guides to understanding. “The West Balkans”, as Yugoslavia is now considered, are […]

Travelling in Bosnia and Hercegovina (B&H) is interesting, and the ancient city of Mostar is a particular treat. Suffice it to say, that of the many conundrums that combine to make the former Yugoslavia, B&H is the most tongue twisting. It is a fascinating place, a country of wars, peace, religions, exodus, mountains, genocide and more. It even has a football team (The Dragons), who are reasonable, and often qualify for European (and World) tournaments. Bosnia also has people, 3.5 million of them, although the loss of over 150,000 young and educated Bosnians over the past decade or so has […]

Belgrade is a city of motion and of people, and one that will hurtle its way through the next few hundred years of history taking whatever comes its way.

Trains are fun. And if the reports on travel sites as disparate as the Guardian and The Daily Telegraph and the “how to” sites like the incomparable Man in Seat 61 who all say that the rail journey from Bar to Belgrade is one of the most scenic in the world, who am I to argue?

Ferry: A great alternative to flying I like journeys, and I enjoy the feeling of travelling; of actually going somewhere. A ferry journey is wonderful, and the Mediterranean and Adriatic Seas are alive with them. Airlines may be expedient and do their job well, but given the option of a train, ship, car or bus, I will take the surface mode every time. I was planning on a trip through the Western Balkans, and first edging toward Montenegro and the railway journey between Podgorica and Belgrade, the ferry seemed to be a welcome option, and so it was that I […]

I only went to Trieste to leave it, and it was not even my first choice of departure points. Bari was, but the ferry to Montenegro has been suspended, and thus access to the train from Bar to Belgrade, one of Europe’s finest, I am led to believe, meant some imaginative preparation was necessary. Let me explain. I had read a great deal about the railway that runs from the Serbian capital of Belgrade through spectacular scenery, ancient villages, dramatic rivers with bridges whose impudence leaves one speechless, down to the Adriatic coast at Bar. Or at least that is […]

Bored in Berlin? Head to Poland for Lunch The Decision in Berlin Unsurprisingly, there is no tourism office in Rzepin. There are no tourists, and from a brief wander through the town, this is hardly surprising either. Coming here was a good idea. Dining at a lovely little local Bulgarian restaurant in Berlin last night, in response to a general question about what to do today, I said “Let’s go to Poland for lunch”. The idea took root, the train schedule to the first town across the border was determined, alarm clocks set and away we went. The idea was […]

Astana, now branded as “Nur Sultan” is the capital of Kazakhstan, and a completely surreal place to visit. I loved it Tourists in Kazakhstan are, it may surprise you to know, less than common in November, and Canadian tourists in Astana are particularly thin on the ground. The early winter winds show their face in Astana, and the ground, dry and brown, is sheltering for the oncoming deep freeze. Astana’s winters are as cold as the Canadian Prairies, but one doesn’t come here for the weather. It may seem like a curious place to go voluntarily. A simple cartographer’s dot […]