Oman: The Gulf’s most exciting country

Oman – a jewel in the Middle East

I lie awake at night from time to time, conjuring up new journeys, and reliving past travels. Cities explored, countries discovered, time-zones conquered and often a list of destinations to be re-examined jostle through my mind as I try to fall asleep.

Of all the places that I have visited, only a relative few stand out as completely and totally memorable, and often for reasons that I cannot easily determine. Oman is one such country. It is a fabulous place to visit, and even now, after three trips, I am anxious to return.

It lies on the southeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula, bordering Saudi Arabia’s vast Empty Quarter, the UAE and Yemen. An interesting neighborhood, and one that has shaped its past and future indelibly. Its very border with the UAE is a fascinating mélange of enclaves and exclaves reflecting the complex familial structures that led to the evolution of The Emirates.

The seven Omani Emirs, being subordinate to Sultans, were each allowed to take their lands and separate from the Omani Sultanate in the mid-1960s. Some were fortunate to have oil, notably Abu Dhabi and Dubai, some, like Ras Al Khaimah and Ajman were less financially endowed. However, separation has been effective, and now only the eccentric border lines give a hint to their former relationships.

They do, however, make for a whimsical region of The Gulf to explore, and with little public transport available, renting a car is really the best way to get to know this engrossing region.

Oman is huge, only slightly smaller than Poland. It is mostly dry, rugged and dramatic; in the south there is a spectacular rainforest that appears for three months each year when overnight, barren slopes turn to lush green hills and lakes appear from nowhere.

The stark contrast then, between the craggy mountains, the sudden greenery and the vast empty desert is inspiring, and the ability to see this transformation remarkable.

Oman’s other transformation that is truly staggering is economic. In 2024 there are just over 60,000 kms of paved roads in Oman; the remarkable thing is that in 1975 there were only 10 kms; yes, “ten” kilometres of paved roads in the entire country.

In the intervening fifty years, Oman has undergone the most extraordinary transformation, guided by the late Sultan Qaboos bin Said and underwritten by extraordinary oil wealth. The development has been in every sector, and tourism has been no different.

One multi-year consultancy was offered to a Spanish group to develop a tourism sector. The remit was not a simple one but incorporated every facet of the industry from construction of infrastructure to the development of a four-year tourism program at the main university that would lead to tourism careers after graduation.

An indication of how tourism was perceived to be an integral part of the economy was the allocation of over 500 consulting days to work with every government department and identifying how their operations in roads, justice, health and others intersected with a visitor economy.

The work has paid off. Oman works, and for visitors, it offers a multitude of opportunity.

Muscat – Oman’s Capital City

Muscat, the country’s capital, merges seamlessly with the old centre of Mutrah. In the massive development phase of the early 21st century, the Sultan decreed that the architecture of the “New Oman” should reflect the regional history and culture rather than following the somewhat gaudy growth of the nearby Emirates, and the result is outstanding. The new blends seamlessly with the old, and the country’s history melds with its future.

For tourists, Oman offers a wide variety of opportunity. From first-class resorts that now compete with the Caribbean for European sunseekers, to active climbing, off-roading, camel riding and camping vacations, there is something for everybody.

As a tourist destination, it is growing fast. In 2024 over 3 million visitors arrived and these arrivals are growing at over 7% annually. Much of the traffic is regional, but as their national flag carrier, Oman Air expands its European presence, tourists from the UK, France and Germany are responding.

For myself, I love to drive. Renting a vehicle and heading out to explore is easy; driving is safe, and the roads are well maintained. Accommodation away from the major centers of the coast can be a little ordinary, but they will be clean and staying out in the country will allow you to dig a little deeper into the mysteries that are Oman.

It is possible, and straightforward, to rent a vehicle in Oman, or to bring a car from Dubai or Abu Dhabi across the border. Formalities are fast and designing a circular journey that hugs the inland mountains before heading to the sea and returning north along the coast will give an exhaustive overview of the country.

Heading to southern Oman

Just three hours drive south of Muscat lies the culturally and historically important city of Sur. A port city that dates back millennia, Sur is considered to be one of the oldest maritime communities in the world. As with so many important trading communities, it has been conquered and reconquered many times throughout its history, and the four major forts that surround the city are a testament to its strategic importance.

 

Now, a thriving port and a major centre for manufacturing dhows, still a major part of the ocean-going shipping fleets of the region. Close by there is a turtle reserve and bird sanctuary, attractions that are enticing more and more visitors each year.

Oman is a peaceful place. Described to me once as “the Switzerland of the Middle East” it is a place where diplomatic adversaries meet to talk, and a country that maintains level and considered relationships with all. Historically the Sultanate has had an oversized influence in the region. Certainly, as a major maritime power in the golden age of shipping, its authority spread as far south as Zanzibar and incorporated the Baluchi coastline of what is now Pakistan.

Today, micro communications have displaced the necessity of shipping lanes for diplomacy, and Oman’s role in maintaining stability in this diverse part of the world should not be underestimated. It is a safe country with little crime, and a nation that offers a confident and welcoming smile to travellers and tourists from around the world.

Whether one wants to relax in the reliably warm winter weather, discover the abundant sea life by scuba diving or head to the mountains for a classic adventure, the choices are ample. It is yet, undiscovered, but this will not remain the case for ever.

Great scenery, engaging history, excellent accommodation and a country of remarkable diversity really make the images of returning to Oman keep me awake at night.